Christmas in Portovenere and the Gulf of Poets

Sea breeze, twinkling lights, centuries-old traditions, and comforting winter food — the Holiday Season in Portovenere and the Gulf of Poets feels warm even on the chilliest days. If you’re planning a festive escape or simply curious about how this slice of Liguria celebrates, here’s a complete guide to everything that makes Christmas and early January special along our coast.

Christmas in Liguria at a Glance

Liguria’s winter atmosphere is peaceful and genuine. Decorations are simple and rooted in tradition; food is homemade and seasonal; coastal villages glow softly under winter light; and every town has its own way of honoring Christmas, from underwater nativity scenes to centuries-old rituals passed down through generations.

Christmas Traditions in Portovenere & Liguria

Decorations and Symbols

One of the most charming local traditions is the use of bay laurel to adorn the home, a tradition that recalls a time when it was the main seasonal greenery used in homes.

Families have adorned their homes with bay since the Middle Ages — dressed with dried fruits, ribbons, walnuts, hazelnuts, and pasta shapes for good luck. Olive branches, juniper berries, and simple natural elements complete the decorations.

A small bay stump was also placed on the Yule log and left to burn until the New Year, symbolizing renewal and protection for the months ahead.

Christmas Eve & Christmas Day

The 24th was — and often still is — a day of lighter meals, usually broth and vegetables, in preparation for the feast on Christmas Day.

On the 25th, households gather around the table for hours. The dishes vary slightly from family to family, but classics include:

• Natalini in brodo (long macaroni in capon broth with tiny meatballs)
• Boiled capon with mustard or sauces
• Pandolce, the traditional Genoese Christmas cake

The afternoon continues with board games like tombola and mercante in fiera, surrounded by laughter and a house full of relatives.

(For a deeper dive into these rituals, see our article on Liguria’s Christmas Traditions.)

Ligurian Christmas Recipes to Try at Home

Liguria’s holiday cuisine is simple in spirit but rich in flavor — lots of herbs, vegetables, fish, and a few cherished sweets. Here’s an overview of the recipes with full instructions already featured on Discover Portovenere.

Savory Dishes

• Tocco Genovese
A slow-cooked, aromatic meat sauce that warms the whole house.

• Cappon Magro
The most scenographic Ligurian dish: layers of seafood, vegetables, and green sauce arranged like a festive tower.

• Natalini in Brodo
A holiday classic with long macaroni simmered in rich capon broth.

• Pressata Genovese
A traditional cold cut prepared around Christmas, sliced thinly and full of rustic charm.

• Russian Salad, Ligurian Style
Creamy, colorful, and essential on every holiday table.

• Vegetable & Fruit Salad
A refreshing mix that balances the richer dishes of the Holidays.

• Ravioli with Salted Codfish
A festive pasta filled with Livorno-style baccalà — a refined take on a regional classic.

Sweets & Desserts

• Pandolce
The star of the season. Fragrant, soft, and full of raisins, pine nuts, and candied fruit.

• Pan Speziato
A winter-spiced loaf perfect with a glass of dessert wine.

• Canestrelli
Soft, buttery ring-shaped cookies dusted with icing sugar.

• Poncré
Made from eggs, sugar, and spirits — a little Ligurian energy boost!

For the full list of recipes, visit Liguria at Christmas: Local Blogger Recipes and Ravioli with Codfish.

Nativity Scenes You Shouldn’t Miss

Manarola’s Illuminated Nativity Scene (Cinque Terre)

One of the most iconic Christmas sights in all of Italy.

Every December, the hillside above Manarola lights up with over 17,000 bulbs and 250 figures, all made from recycled materials. Mario Andreoli started the project in 1961, and the scene was fully inaugurated in 1980. It holds the Guinness World Record as the largest nativity scene in the world.

The lights usually switch on around 8 December and stay until early January.

(Full article: Manarola’s Magical Nativity Scene)

Artistic and Historic Nativity Scenes Across Liguria

Liguria has one of the richest presepe traditions in Italy, thanks to the 18th-century artisan workshops of Genoa. Some must-sees:

• Santuario della Madonnetta (Genoa) – Monumental, 17th–18th century figurines.
• Bambin Gesù di Praga (Arenzano) – The region’s most famous ceramic nativity.
• Pentema (Torriglia) – A full village transformed into a life-size living nativity.
• Franco Curti’s Mechanical Nativity (Genoa) – Vintage animations, moving characters, and atmospheric scenes.

Coastal & Underwater Nativity Scenes in the Gulf of Poets

The seaside versions are truly unique:

• Portovenere – Santa arrives by sea, divers carry the statues, and a procession leads to San Lorenzo.
• La Spezia – At midnight, a seashell carrying Baby Jesus emerges from the water.
• Tellaro – Thousands of lights glowing on the cliffs and alleys.
• San Terenzo – A charming, intimate coastal nativity.
• Riva Trigoso – A submerged nativity scene with bronze dolphins instead of the ox and donkey.

More in our Underwater Christmas and Beautiful Nativity Scenes in Liguria guides.

The Befana Arrives in the Gulf of Poets

On the occasion of the Epiphany holiday (6th January), Italy celebrates the arrival of La Befana, the friendly old woman who brings candy (or coal!) to children.

Here, she makes some memorable entrances:

• Portovenere – She “flies” off a medieval tower.
• Lerici – She rides in on a small train.
• La Spezia – She leads a lively parade.
• Sarzana – She descends from the sky.

If you’re here around the Epiphany, it’s worth checking each town’s schedule — every year brings a charming twist.

(Full guide: It’s Befana Time in Liguria)

FAQ: Christmas in Portovenere & the Gulf of Poets