Have you ever seen a medallion-shaped pasta stamped with beautiful molds? We are talking about the ancient and distinctive croxetti, a pasta that is typical of eastern Ligurian cuisine!
The decoration of these round and thin “coins” of pasta is made with a handmade, wooden mold. The embossing allows this type of pasta to “welcome” the sauce in a deliciously unique way.
History of the croxetti
The ancient origins of the croxetti date back to the Middle Ages. In fact, this pasta is mentioned in the Liber de Coquina, one of the oldest known medieval cookbooks.
There are various theories on the origin of the croxetti name. This is further complicated by the number of different local traditions between Genoa and eastern Liguria. For example, in Genoa the pasta is called corzetti, while in the hinterland of the Gulf of Poets it is known as croxetti. Other variations include corsetti and curzetti.
The etymology of the name originates in the pre-Latin word Krosu, which is translated as “to hollow out”. But there are interesting myths about its origins! According to one, the name derived from the crosazzo, the seventeenth-century coin of the Republic of Genoa. Another legend says that the name honored the “cross” that was initially engraved on one side of the pasta.
At some point, between the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, Liguria’s aristocracy began stamping their family coat of arms on the croxetti. This reminded the diners of the importance of their family and reaffirmed their dominion over the territory. The engravings were usually different on the two sides.
Nowadays this pasta is often seasoned with pesto, but white sauces were mainly used in the past, such as pine nut sauce.
An ancient craft that survives today
Until the early twentieth century, most families in eastern Liguria had their own corzetto, i.e. the wooden tool that is used to engrave the pasta. The tradition faded with the arrival of pasta rolling machines and the industrialized production of pasta.
Luckily, some artisans have preserved this unique craftsmanship over the centuries… up to today!
- Artisans usually make the corzetto with tannin-free wood, such as that of beech, walnut or apple tree.
- Each tool is crafted on mechanical lathes and then engraved by hand, one by one!
- Every single disc of dough is pressed into the mold to decorate it on both sides. The design that is formed allows the pasta to better collect the sauce, while the pressure of the mold makes it more resistant to the cooking process.
- A tip if you decide to have your own ‘pasta family stamp’ one day: the corzetto should never be cleaned with water, instead it should be massaged with a few drops of olive oil.
The croxetti at Palmaria Restaurant in Portovenere
You can find a sublime example of personalized croxetti at Palmaria Restaurant, a fine-dining sea-view restaurant in Portovenere.
A Ligurian artisan customised the pasta stamp with a different engraving for each side, as dictated by the ancient tradition.
The croxetti have the restaurant’s logo on one side, while on the other they feature some of the iconic artwork by Stefano Pilato that is exposed in and around the restaurant.
How are the croxetti served in Portovenere’s Palmaria Restaurant?
The chef explains:
“When studying the origin of the croxetti, I identified the recipe that involves the use of eggs, white wine, type “0” flour and durum wheat flour, the latter to make the pasta more porous, ready to accommodate the sauce.
With the Palmaria Team, we also thought of other solutions to use the croxetti in alternative ways that go beyond the savory combination. For example, in autumn we are inspired by the season and use chestnut flour, ricotta cheese, honey and figs to prepare a delicious dessert.”
