Hiking from Portovenere to Cinque Terre

Hiking is one of those unmissable outdoor experiences when visiting the Gulf of Poets and Cinque Terre, just like sailing or doing a boat tour. The paths between Monterosso, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Riomaggiore are particularly famous, but did you know that there are some wonderful hiking trails in Portovenere?

This article was written in 2022 and updated in 2026.

Quick tip: Can you hike from Portovenere to Cinque Terre?
Yes! You can hike directly from Portovenere to Riomaggiore, the southernmost village of the Cinque Terre, following a scenic trail through Mediterranean vegetation, hillside vineyards and panoramic viewpoints overlooking the Ligurian Sea. The hike takes approximately five hours and is best suited to reasonably fit walkers, as the route includes steep climbs and uneven terrain. It’s a wonderful way to discover a quieter side of this famous coastline, away from the busiest tourist paths.

Hike from Portovenere to Riomaggiore (Cinque Terre)

The Alta Via delle Cinque Terre (AV5T) is a spectacular long-distance hiking trail that follows the ridges above the Cinque Terre, connecting Portovenere and Levanto. Along the way, it offers breathtaking views of the cliffs overlooking the sea, surrounded by the scents and colours of the Mediterranean scrub.

The first stretch of the itinerary connects Portovenere with Riomaggiore via trail 598-1 (formerly known as Sentiero No. 1) and trail 593 (formerly Sentiero No. 3). In Italian, it is also known as Il Sentiero dell’Infinito (the infinity trail).

How to reach Riomaggiore from Portovenere on foot

From Piazza Bastreri in Portovenere, you can take the trail that runs along the majestic Doria Castle and that leads you to Monte Muzzerone. This limestone massif rises to just over 300 metres, and is a popular spot for rock climbing. This is the first major challenge of trail 598-1: the hiking trail is well marked but, considering the slope, requires a certain effort.

However, the effort is rewarded with sweeping views across the islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto; the rugged and jagged Cinque Terre landscape and the Promontory of Punta Mesco. On the clearest days, you can even see Gorgona and Capraia, which are the northernmost islands of the Tuscan archipelago!

After a short stretch through woodland, you reach the village of Campiglia, at 400 meters above sea level. This small village is on the ridge that divides its panoramas between the sea of the Cinque Terre on one side and the Gulf of La Spezia on the other. The trail then alternates between pine and chestnut woods that occasionally thin out and give you wonderful views of the sea below, including the Ferale Cliff and the hamlet of Schiara.

Along trail 598-1 you will notice how the landscape was affected by human action with the typical dry-stone terraces cultivated with vines, which are crossed by curious monorail vehicles that winemakers use to move along these steep slopes.

At around 500 meters above sea level, the hiking route continues among beautiful cork oaks and holm oaks and then crosses the pine forest that houses the Palestra nel Verde (outdoor gym/sports area). With the last stretch in the scrub you reach Colle del Telegrafo (516 meters a.s.l.), from where you can enjoy a unique landscape on the Apuan Alps, the Carrara marble quarries and the green Val di Vara between Liguria and Tuscany.

Leave the Alta Via hiking trail to take path 593, which takes you down to Riomaggiore, the southernmost of the Cinque Terre villages. Along the way, you will find the Sanctuary of the Madonna di Montenero (354 meters a.s.l.), traditionally dated to 1335.

Overall, the hiking route between Portovenere and Riomaggiore is approximately 9 km according to the official park itinerary (note that GPS recordings and optional detours can produce different distances), and generally takes around 5 hours of walking time, excluding breaks. The official park data lists the Portovenere–Colle del Telegrafo section with a duration of 3 hours 20 minutes; the descent to Riomaggiore adds roughly another 1 hour 45 minutes.

Although no technical climbing skills are required, this is a demanding mountain-and-coast trail with sustained ascents, uneven ground and exposed sections. It is best suited to reasonably fit hikers wearing proper hiking shoes; it is not a flat, accessible walking route. You can hike it throughout the year, although in summer it is advisable to hike in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the strong heat.

How to return to Portovenere from Riomaggiore

Since Portovenere has no train station, hikers returning from Riomaggiore can take a train to La Spezia and then a local bus to Portovenere. Seasonal ferry services may offer an alternative, depending on the time of year and sea conditions. Check the latest schedules before departure, especially if you plan to finish your hike in the late afternoon. Do not assume a direct connection to Portovenere, as the village has no railway station.

More hiking routes near Portovenere

1. Sentiero Verde Azzurro (Cinque Terre)

The ‘Sentiero Verde Azzurro’ is one of the most spectacular hiking trails in the Cinque Terre, connecting Monterosso and Corniglia. Its sections are periodically closed or regulated for safety, maintenance and visitor-flow management. Before planning a hike, check the official Cinque Terre National Park trail network page, which lists each section’s current status.

For example, the famous Via dell’Amore between Riomaggiore and Manarola has a regulated booking system. Visitors must reserve a 30-minute entry slot; access is included in qualifying Cinque Terre Cards (see more below), while visitors without a Card need a separate ticket or supplement. The route is one-way, entering from Riomaggiore and walking towards Manarola. At the time of updating, the Manarola–Corniglia coastal stretch is closed due to a landslide; the higher Manarola–Volastra–Corniglia route is commonly used as an alternative.

Trail conditions in the Cinque Terre and Portovenere area can change rapidly because of weather, landslides, maintenance and visitor-management measures. Always consult the official Cinque Terre National Park trail network before setting out, and choose the route that matches your fitness, footwear and the day’s conditions.

For more information, contact infopoint@parconazionale5terre.it, call +39 0187 1857573 or visit www.parconazionale5terre.it.

2. Hiking on Palmaria Island

Another fantastic hiking trail in Portovenere is the one on Palmaria Island, just across the sea channel. The island, which is an imposing limestone formation, can be explored on a hike of approximately 4–5 hours.

Its winding loop path takes you to ancient forts, the fragrant scrub and to spectacular cliffs and grottos, where fossil remains of Pleistocene animals and burial sites have been found. Read more on Palmaria Island here.

3. Hiking in the Val di Vara

If you are looking for an alternative hiking option, this green organic valley near the Gulf of La Spezia is ideal. The Val di Vara stretches inland from the Gulf of Poets and is crossed by the Vara River.

The upper Val di Vara is also known for its organic farming district, Biodistretto Val di Vara – La Valle del Biologico (Valley of Organic Farming), where pastures, farms and local producers reflect a long-standing commitment to organic agriculture and the preservation of the area’s natural heritage. Read more about the Val di Vara here.

Cinque Terre Card and Hiking Tips

If you plan to continue hiking within Cinque Terre National Park, check whether a Cinque Terre Card or reservation is required for your chosen section. For example, a ticket or an additional supplement is required for the Via dell’Amore and for the paid coastal sections between Monterosso and Corniglia; other park trails are generally free, but access rules can change. The Card contributes to trail maintenance and the protection of the terraced landscape, and the park may introduce one-way systems or timed access during periods of high attendance.

Essential tips before you set off:

• Check the park’s official trail-status page on the day of the hike; closures can change quickly.
• Wear hiking shoes with grip; several sections are steep and slippery after rain.
• Carry sufficient water, especially from late spring to early autumn; the park publishes heat-related recommendations for hikers.
• Do not rely on mobile signal in remote stretches; download an offline map.
• Stay on marked paths to protect the dry-stone terraces and fragile Mediterranean vegetation.

Sources
Francesco Tomasinelli on rivistanatura.com
Parco Nazionale 5 Terre
Cover image from from Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre