Rock Climbing in Portovenere’s Muzzerone Cliffs

The Muzzerone Cliffs are one of Liguria’s most spectacular climbing destinations. Rising from the azure waters of the Gulf of Poets, these majestic white and grey limestone walls offer an unparalleled combination of sport, scenery, and sea air. Muzzerone is located between La Spezia and Portovenere, near the village of Le Grazie. Whether you are a seasoned alpinist or a beginner eager to try outdoor climbing while on vacation, Muzzerone is an open-air rock gym where nature and adrenaline meet.

A Brief History of Rock Climbing at Muzzerone

While some locals had already started to enjoy the cliffs for recreational climbing, the story of rock climbing at Muzzerone begins in the 1970s, when the Italian Navy’s elite Raiders Corps (Comsubin), based in Varignano Bay at Le Grazie, started using these cliffs for military training.

By the end of that decade, a handful of local climbers had begun bolting new routes on the striking limestone walls, quickly turning the area into a genuine open-air climbing gym.

In the early 1990s, the “Muzzerone” Free Climbing School was established — the first in Italy dedicated entirely to the sport climbing style.

Over time, this maritime crag has earned a reputation not just for its variety of climbs, but for its breathtaking views over the Ligurian coastline.

The Rock and the Climbing Style

The Muzzerone rock is solid, high-quality limestone, predominantly white and grey. Climbs here are often a beautiful blend of technique and movement on vertical or slightly overhanging faces, with tiny crimps and water pockets that sometimes challenge your fingertips.

If you’re looking for power climbs, head to Polveriera or Mandrachia Alta for steep overhangs. For finger endurance and technical mastery, the Specchio di Atlantide sector offers some of the area’s hardest lines.

Sectors and Routes of the the Gulf of Poets’ Vertical Paradise

Muzzerone is made up of 18+ distinct sectors, with a variety of routes ranging from beginner-friendly slabs to multi-pitch adventures. The lengths vary from 10 to 220 meters, with most multi-pitch routes comprising 2–3 pitches. Grades range from 3 to 8b, making this a playground for climbers of all abilities.

Some highlights:

• Garimpo – Short, technical climbs (6c–8a+), 15–20m.
• Specchio di Atlantide – Steep, hard testpieces (7a–8b).
• Atlantide – Variety of routes (6a+–8a) up to 75m.
• L’Intaglio & Cava degli Anelli – Good for kids and beginners.
• Parete delle Meraviglie / Polveriera – Stunning sea views, mix of grades (3–7a).
• Mandrachia Alta & Bassa – Long, varied climbs from 5a to 8a.

Best Climbing Season

Thanks to its Mediterranean climate and west-facing exposure, Muzzerone offers year-round climbing.

• Spring & Autumn: Ideal temperatures, stable weather.
• Summer: Climb in shaded sectors or take advantage of the refreshing afternoon Mistral wind.
• Winter: Mild conditions make climbing possible almost every day.

Why Climb Muzzerone in Portovenere

Climbing at Muzzerone is not just about the sport — it’s about the full Ligurian experience. Between pitches, you’ll see the glittering Tyrrhenian Sea, the islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto.

Indoor climbing in La Spezia

There is an indoor climbing gym in La Spezia, inside the G. Mariotti Sports Hall on Via Della Pianta. The facility features an artificial climbing wall of over 200 m², along with a dedicated training area of more than 70 m².

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Discover more on rock climbing

For a complete climbing guide, visit the website of Scuola Arrampicata Muzzerone or its Facebook Group.

For information about rock climbing at Muzzerone, please contact emanuele.stefanemoz1@alice.it / scuolacaimuzzerone@gmail.com.

Sources: www.scuoladiarrampicatamuzzerone.it