The Best 3-Day Portovenere & Gulf of Poets Itinerary

Welcome to the Gulf of Poets, a corner of Liguria where the sea meets soul-stirring literature and colorful vertical villages. Whether you are a hiker, a history buff, or a lover of la dolce vita, this three-day itinerary will help you uncover the secrets of our UNESCO World Heritage home.

Day 1: Portovenere & The Archipelago of Three Islands

Your journey begins in Portovenere, the “sixth town” of the Cinque Terre area, known for its dramatic cliffs and medieval charm.

Morning: Stroll the Palazzata and Visit San Pietro, the Carugio and Doria Castle

Start with a walk along the Palazzata, the iconic row of tall, pastel-colored houses.

• Must-See: Walk to the tip of the promontory to reach the Church of San Pietro, a layered masterpiece blending early Christian origins, Romanesque structure, and later Gothic details. Its arched loggia offers some of the most striking views in Liguria.
• Meditate at Lord Byron’s Grotto: Just below the church lies Grotta Arpaia. Local legends say that the English poet Lord Byron swam across the gulf from here to visit the Shelleys in Lerici, though this is historically debated.
• Head into the Carugio (Via Capellini), the narrow main street filled with artisanal shops.
• The Fortress: Climb up to Doria Castle. This strategic stronghold offers a 360-degree panorama of the Gulf and the Apuan Alps.

Afternoon: Palmaria Island

Take a quick boat ride across “Le Bocche” channel to Palmaria Island. It’s a hiker’s paradise with pristine beaches. Hike around the island by following the beautiful trails.

If you’re visiting in summer, the crystal-clear waters are perfect for a swim.

Enjoy a sunset boat tour around the other islands too (Tino and Tinetto), before returning for dinner at Palmaria Restaurant in Portovenere with panoramic views and fine dining with fresh products.

Day 2: The Romantic Trail – Tellaro, Lerici, and San Terenzo

On day two, we follow in the footsteps of the Romantic poets, exploring the eastern side of the Gulf.

Morning: Boat Ride and the Magic of Tellaro

The best way to start your day is by hopping on a boat to cross the Gulf of Poets. From the water, you can truly admire the beautiful mosaic of nature and the famous colorful buildings that define the Ligurian coast.

You’ll disembark in Tellaro, officially recognized as one of “Italy’s Most Beautiful Villages” (I Borghi più Belli d’Italia). Perched dramatically on a cliff, this fishing village is famous for the local legend of the giant octopus that allegedly climbed out of the sea to ring the church bells, warning the sleeping population of a pirate attack.

From Tellaro’s small harbor, lace up your walking shoes for the panoramic trail to Lerici. It is a stunning 3-hour walk through silver olive groves with breathtaking views of the Mediterranean.

Afternoon: Lerici, San Terenzo, and the Shelley Myth

Your hike ends in Lerici, a town dominated by the majestic San Giorgio Castle. After strolling through the charming historic center, take the evocative sea promenade—a flat, easy walk that connects Lerici to the hamlet of San Terenzo.

Along this path, you will see the white-washed Villa Magni, the 19th-century home of poets Percy Bysshe and Mary Shelley. It’s easy to see why they were inspired here; at their time, the sea literally lapped against the house’s colonnade.

Percy famously sailed his boat, the Don Juan, in these very waters. Today, the village of San Terenzo maintains that same relaxed, artistic atmosphere that captivated the Shelleys two centuries ago.

Day 3: Culture, Oysters, or “Heroic” Vineyards

For your final day, choose between a deep dive into history or an immersive local experience. Or mix and match a bit of both worlds depending on your interests and available time!

Option 1: The Cultural Route (Sarzana, La Spezia, Varignano Villa)

If you love peeling back the layers of history, Day 3 is dedicated to the “Capital” of the Gulf and its neighboring medieval gems.

Sarzana: Where Liguria Meets Tuscany

Just 40 minutes from Portovenere, Sarzana feels like a living museum. Unlike the vertical coastal villages, Sarzana is located in the lush Magra Valley and served as a major strategic crossroads for centuries.

• A Tale of Two Fortresses: Explore the Fortezza Firmafede, an imposing citadel rebuilt by Lorenzo de’ Medici, which now hosts interesting art exhibitions. For the best views of the valley, head uphill to the Fortezza di Sarzanello, a massive fortification.
• The Marble Cathedral: The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta is a Gothic masterpiece in white marble. Inside, you’ll find the Cross of Maestro Guglielmo (1138), the earliest known dated painted cross in Italy, and a sacred relic said to contain the Blood of Christ.

La Spezia: The Naval Capital

As the largest city on the Gulf, La Spezia offers a sophisticated urban contrast to the small villages.

• Naval Heritage: The Technical Naval Museum is a must. It’s located right at the entrance of the Naval Arsenal and showcases the history of the Italian Navy and the evolution of navigation.
• Art & Archeology: Visit the San Giorgio Castle (built in 1262) which houses the “Ubaldo Formentini” Civic Archaeological Museum. Here, you can see prehistoric “Statue Menhir”—mysterious stone carvings found in the surrounding Lunigiana region.
• Passeggiata Morin: End your afternoon with a walk along this palm-lined promenade. It’s the city’s “front porch,” offering a panoramic view of the entire Gulf and the boats swaying in the breeze.

The Roman Villa of Varignano: An Ancient Retreat

Located in the quiet hamlet of Le Grazie, this is one of Northern Italy’s best-kept archaeological secrets.

• The Oldest Oil Mill: This maritime villa dates back to the 1st century B.C. and features one of the oldest known surviving olive oil presses in Liguria.
• Ancient Luxury: You can still see the remains of the owner’s private spa, complete with heated rooms and a unique vaulted cistern. It’s a fascinating glimpse into how the Roman “elite” enjoyed the Mediterranean lifestyle over 2,000 years ago.

Option 2: The Authentic Experience (Oysters, Wine and Wellness)

• Oyster Tour: Join a boat tour from Portovenere to today’s oyster farms. You’ll learn how muscolai (mussel farmers) have worked these waters since the 1890s, and how oyster farming has more recently developed here, ending with a guided tasting of fresh oysters paired with Cinque Terre wine.
• Vineyards: Visit a local winery like Ca’ Lunae, Arrigoni, Pietra del Focolare or Cantine Federici. Taste the world-famous Vermentino while learning about the Roman history of the Luni area.
• Wellness & Relaxation: After three days of exploring, soothe your muscles at Portovenere Wellness (located at Grand Hotel Portovenere). Enjoy a humid circuit with a Turkish bath and sauna, or book a massage using MEI natural phytocosmetics made from wild Italian herbs.

Beyond the Itinerary: Seasonal Wonders & Local Events

While three days offer a perfect introduction, the Gulf of Poets is a region that rewards the returning traveler. Depending on when you visit, your itinerary might look very different. In the height of summer, you may prefer to spend your afternoons at the beach or exploring hidden coves by boat.

The local calendar is also packed with events that offer a deeper glimpse into our culture. In July, the La Spezia International Jazz Festival brings world-class music to the waterfront, while the first Sunday of August sees the Palio del Golfo, a historic rowing regatta where the thirteen seaside hamlets compete for glory.

Whether you come for the quiet trails of spring and autumn or the energetic festivals of summer, there is always another layer of the Gulf to discover!

FAQ: Planning Your Trip to Portovenere & The Gulf of Poets